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Höllentalbahn to the Black ForestSpend a day in the Schwarzwald with the "Hell Valley Railway."
The
historic city of Freiburg im Breisgau, in
Germany's far southwest, is famous for its university, its Muenster or
cathedral, and perhaps
most of all for its position at the edge of the
Schwarzwald, or Black Forest.
Freiburg is situated at the western end of the Dreisam
river valley, and the city's proximity to these rolling, tree-crowned mountains
makes it a natural jumping-off point for all kinds of visitors.
Whether your ideal day out involves snowboarding, hiking, or a
Hefeweizen and a slice of world-famous Black Forest cake--or maybe all of the
above--the best way in and out of the Black Forest is by train.
Departing from
Freiburg's main station every half hour, the Höllentalbahn (which translates to
"Hell Valley Railway") carries travelers up 2,000 feet on one of the steepest and
most stunning railways in Germany. Peppered along the route are towns, trails,
slopes, and no shortage of restaurants and inns. With many Black Forest destinations just 30 minutes to an hour
away on the Höllentalbahn, a Black Forest excursion can be just as easily
accomplished in a day as in a weekend, depending on how much you hope to
accomplish. And with beautiful scenery right out your window throughout the
ride, your time spent in transit may turn out to be one of the highlights of the
whole trip.
Before ascending into the mountains of the Black Forest, the
Höllentalbahn travels east through the dramatic Dreisam river valley. In
December, consider a visit to the Buchenbach Christmas Market, which is a
pleasant 20- minute walk east of the
train's Himmelreich stop along the Hauptstrasse. But it is after Himmelreich that the Höllentalbahn begins to
ascend into the forest, climbing along the northern face of the twisting valley.
One of the most dramatic views comes on the 190 foot high stone-and-mortar
Ravenna Bridge, which was completed in 1927, destroyed in World War II, and
rebuilt by order of the French occupation forces in the years following the war. Passengers soon arrive in two of the Black Forest's more popular
resort towns. Hinterzarten offers many trails for hiking, bicycling, and
cross-country skiing. Neighboring Titisee
sits on a tree-lined See (see meaning
lake or sea) complete with tour operators as well as small boats for rental.
While Titisee is also well-known for its shopping and spas, visitors will find
many traditional restaurants and hotels in both towns. After Titisee, the Höllentalbahn splits. Riders on
Neustadt-bound trains will continue just a few minutes further before reaching
the end of the line. In Neustadt, they may switch to a diesel-powered train and
continue east to Donaeuschingen on the eastern edge of the forest. Trains
destined for Seebrugg continue past Titisee, rising above the lake's eastern
shore and offering views of the beautiful Bärental, or Bear Valley. Despite the
name, skiers and snowboarders seem to be far more common than bears here; during
the winter, buses waiting at the train's Feldberg-Bärental stop transport
legions of fun-seekers up to the Feldberg mountaintop. At an elevation of almost
5,000 feet, this is the Black Forest's highest peak and a perennial favorite of
tourists and locals alike. Technically, trains that continue past Titisee to Seebrugg are
part of the Dreiseenbahn, or Three Lakes
Railway, named for the lakes of Titisee, Windgfällweiher, and Schluchsee, where
the train terminates.
With a surface area four times larger than Titisee,
Schluchsee is a popular destination in the summer, with plenty of opportunities
for swimming, sailing, and fishing. Even in the winter, the beauty of the lake
and village alike make for excellent walks along the area's many trails.
Visitors in July, August, and December have the opportunity to ride a historic
steam train as well--an extension of a small railway museum at
Seebrugg. Timetables are available via Deutsche Bahn, but generally
speaking, trains depart from Freiburg's main station every half hour. Trains
bound for Titisee-Neustadt and Seebrugg follow the same route until Titisee,
after which they split. Up-to-date departure information is posted at the train
station, and is always available via the trip planning tool at
Deutsche Bahn's Web site (available in
English and other languages).
Travelers staying near Freiburg may wish to purchase a three-day WelcomeCard, which is oriented at tourists and includes all local transport as well as the Schauinsland cable car. Information on the WelcomeKarte is available in English.
Current ticket info is always available on the regional transit agency's website. Tickets cannot be purchased on board the train, so be sure to allow ample time to stop at the main ticket office or a ticket vending machine at the main station. (Riding without a ticket incurs a steep fine.) Tourism and transportation linksBlack Forest
Tourism 3-Seen-Bahn Deutsche Bahn RVF (Regio-Verkehrsverbund Freiburg) VAG (Freiburger Verkehrs
AG) About the author:Anders Imboden has written travel articles about Scotland, Ireland, Germany, and Spain. He wrote this article while studying for a Master of Science in Environmental Governance degree at the Albert Ludwigs University of Freiburg.
Text and photos copyright ©2014 by Anders Imboden. All rights reserved. | Europe for Visitors - Home | | Advertising, audience, privacy, disclosures, and contact information | |