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MadridTravel and Tourist Information
My
first trip to Madrid was in the 1960s--at a time when officials of General
Franco's government were chauffeured in ancient long-hooded Citroëns,
street repairmen wore blue cotton suits with lapels, teenage girls flocked to
Raphael's tragic movie musical,
Cuando tú no estás,
and residents of apartments and pensiones clapped their hands in the
street to call the neighborhood watchman, or sereno, when they needed to
enter their locked buildings after dark.
Today,
Franco's regime has given way to a constitutional monarchy, teenage girls have
no interest in singers old enough to be their grandfathers, the sereno
has been replaced by electronic door codes, and city workers' wardrobes run to
lime-green reflective vests or bright orange coveralls.
Still,
much remains the same: The Gran Vía
continues to pack in the crowds with its theatres and movie houses, Madrileños
still dine at an hour when Scandinavians are in bed, lottery vendors hawk their
tickets on the major avenues, the Chocolatería San Ginés serves up hot chocolate
and crisp churros into the wee hours, and there's nobody more dapper or
dignified than an elderly Spanish gentleman in a well-cut suit. Madrid was an exciting town four decades ago
(even for a young man who'd arrived from midtown Manhattan for a three-month
sojourn), and these days it's an even livelier venue for locals and visitors.
With 4.5 million inhabitants within the city limits and 6.5 million in the
metropolitan area, Madrid isn't just a city--it's a major European capital where
you can find everything from centuries-old restaurants to flavor-of-the-week
nightclubs.
Yes,
they still have bullfights in the Plaza de Toros at Ventas, but that
much-bloodied ring is now used for rock concerts, too. In short, Madrid is a
tourist destination with something for nearly everyone--and as a bonus, it's one
of the most affordable major cities of Europe. After 40 years, I still love the
place, and I can hardly wait to go back. But enough about me: It's your
turn to visit Madrid with the help of this guide and related articles. Next page: Madrid history and orientation
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