Europe for Cruisers logo
Cruise Lines Cruise Reviews

Europe > Cruises > Reviews > Emerald Star > Photos > Pre-Cruise: Nuremberg

Emerald Star Cruise Photos

From: Emerald Waterways cruise review: Nuremberg-Trier

Pre-cruise stay: Nuremberg

Tourist takes selfie by Nuremberg Castle

ABOVE: A tourist takes a selfie beneath the walls of Nuremberg's Imperial Castle.

Nuremberg is a city of 495,000 people in Franconia, a region of Germany that has been part of Bavaria since 1803. It's also a busy port for river cruising (see our Nuremberg Port Guide), both for cruises heading east to the Danube and west toward the Rhine.

We arrived at Nuremberg Airport and later spent several days in the city before an Emerald Waterways river cruise from Nuremberg to Trier via the Main-Danube Canal and the rivers Main, Rhine, and Moselle. (We also spent time in nearbyErlangen, where Cheryl lived when she was in third and fourth grade.)

  • Tip: If you're cruising to or from Nuremberg, we strongly recommend that you spend at least a couple of nights in the city center. There's a lot to see, and the few sights that aren't within the old city walls are easy to reach by public transportation.


Hauptbahnhof, Nuremberg

We arrived at Nuremberg's Hauptbahnhof (the city's main railway station), which is easy to reach from the airport by U-Bahn or from Erlangen, where we'd spent several nights, by regional train or S-Bahn.


Konigstrasse street sign, Nuremberg

From the station's lower level, we followed the signs for Tourist Information to the Altstadt, or Old City, where we found the Königstrasse just inside the city walls.


Hotel Drei Raben, Nuremberg

It was only about five minutes (at most) to the Hotel Drei Raben, a four-star boutique hotel where we'd made reservations through our hotel partner, Booking.com.


Welcome to Hotel Drei Raben, Nuremberg

We were welcomed to our room with a message on a blackboard and cookies in the shape of ravens (Raben).


Raven sculpture in Hotel Drei Raben, Nuremberg

A sculpture on the windowsill featured the hotel's mascot(s).


Hotel Drei Raben wall graphic

Every room at the Hotel Drei Raben has a different theme. Our room's wall graphic honored the steam locomotive Adler ("Eagle") and the Gesellschaft zur Errichtung einer Eisenbahn mit Dampffahrt zwischen Nürnberg und Fürth, which was the first railroad in Germany when it opened on December 7, 1835.


View from window of Hotel Drei Raben

From our windows, we could see the Königstrasse and a traditional-looking building next door.


Bavarian group in Nuremberg

After unpacking, we went for a long walk in Nuremberg's Altstadt, which had changed quite a bit since Cheryl had visited regularly from her home in Erlangen during the late 1950s.

AA block or two from our hotel, we saw a brass band performing on a square.


People in Trachten in Nuremberg

Groups of people in Trachten, or traditional costume, from towns throughout Franconia stood by as the band played.


Nuremberg crowd

When the band had finished, spectactators waited patiently as local civic and church officials took turns giving speeches.


Bavarian and Franconian groups in Nuremberg Altstadt

Nuremberg procession

We never did figure out what the event was, but when the speeches and music were over, the crowd formed a procession and marched toward the center of the Altstadt.


Church of Our Lady, Nuremberg (Frauenkirche)

We went on a procession of our own, passing the Hauptmarkt and the Frauenkirche (a.k.a. Church of Our Lady).


GPS reference point in Nuremberg

A manhole cover identified our location as the GPS reference point for the city of Nuremberg.


Hauptmarkt Nuremberg

Gluten-free Lubkuchen in Nuremberg

On the Hauptmarkt, vendors were selling produce and other edibles that ranged from oversize cherries to gluten-free Lebkuchen.


Busker in Nuremberg

Just up the street, a busker performed on the Rathausplatz in front of City Hall.


WC in Nuremberg Rathaus or Town Hall

The Rathaus had a typically German concession to practicality: a public lavatory facing the street, with a modest admission fee of €0,50.


MyMuesli shop in Nuremberg

Even though it was a Sunday, many people were window-shopping in the city center, which had a wide range of shops and department stores. If we'd been hungry, we could have come back on Monday to buy custom-formulated Muesli.


Hunde Eis in Nuremberg, Germany

Or, if we'd been from the Internet (where nobody knows you're a dog), we could have shopped for canine ice cream.


Bohne & Kleid store, Nuremberg

This store sign literally means "Bean and Dress." Obviously, the owner of the clothing and accessory shop couldn't resist the play on words.


Imperial Castle, Nuremberg, Germany

We continued walking until we reached the Kaiserburg, or Imperial Castle, at the northern end of the walled Altstadt.


The castle is Nuremberg's premier tourist attraction, and it's open daily year-round.


Panoramic view from Imperial Castle, Nuremberg

We were too jet-lagged to enjoy a museum visit or guided tour, so we simply went into the Castle Gardens (free admission) to enjoy a panoramic view of Nuremberg's rooftops.

Click here and maximize your browser window for a larger panoramic image.


Maria Sibylla Merian Garden, Imperial Castle of Nuremberg

Cherries ripening in Maria Sibylla Merian Garden, Kaiserburg Nuremberg

The adjoining Maria Sibylla Merian Garden was a pleasant walled garden with a lawn, benches, and a variety of plantings--including this cherry tree, which was heavy with fruit.

  • Note: Admission to the Maria Sibylla Merian-Garten is free, but the garden is open to the public only on Sunday and Monday afternoons from April to October.


Well House and Sinwell Tower, Imperial Castle of Nuremberg

The Well House and Sinwell Tower are in the castle bailey. Visitors can climb up to a platform inside the tower for a bird's-eye view of the Altstadt.


Kaiserburg Nuernberg

Imperial Castle Nuremberg

After we'd had our fill of high-altitude Nuremberg, we walked down the steep cobblestoned path to the exit. (See castle map.)


Imperial Castle Nuremberg - gate

Foundations of Imperial Castle, Nuremberg

The lower gate led us outside the castle, where we could see the Kaiserburg&'s massive foundations.


Tiergartenplatz, Nuremberg

Instead of retracing our route, we bore right as we left the castle and followed the city's medieval walls dowhill. We soon reached the Tiergartenplatz.


Tiergartentor tunnel, Nuremberg

The Tiergartentor, or Zoo Gate, led to neighborhoods outside the Old City's walls.


Neutor, Nuremberg

Continuing downhill, we reached the Neutor, or New Gate.


 

A flight of stone steps took us to a park on top of the massive walls. 


Apartment in Nuremberg city walls

WC in Nuremberg city walls

Nuremberg's fortified walls are occupied by apartments, businesses, and at least one public WC.


Heart-shaped lock in Nuremberg's city walls

"I ❤ Nuremberg" may be a concept that predates bumper stickers and t-shirts: We saw this heart-shaped lock on an old wooden door in the city walls.


Nuremberg bicyclists and St. Sebald Church

Later, after further explorations of the Altstadt and a free glass of wine at our hotel, we walked to dinner near the Sebalduskirche (St. Sebald Church), passing bicyclists along the way.


Goldenes Posthorn sign, Nuremberg

We ate at the Goldenes Posthorn, a traditional restaurant with outdoor tables and a menu of stick-to-your-ribs Franconian food.


Heart-shaped platter with Nuernberger sausages

What could have been more appropriate for a romantic dinner in Nürnberg than a heart-shaped platter of Nürnberger sausages?


Hotel Drei Raben, Nuremberg

After a long day, we were happy to return to the Hotel Drei Raben, where a comfortable bed awaited us.


Next day:

Breakfast buffet at Hotel Drei Raben, Nuremberg

We began our second day in Nuremberg with breakfast at the Hotel Drei Raben (included in the "guaranteed lowest available rate" from Booking.com).


Breakfast buffet at Hotel Drei Raben

A breakfast buffet had been laid out in the hotel's lobby bar, where we'd had a free glass of wine the previous evening. (The Hotel Drei Raben offers its guests a "glass of wine or any other aperitif" with antipasti from 6 to 8 p.m. daily.)


Breakfast breads at Hotel Drei Raben

The choice of breads, pastries, fruits, cereals, herring, meats, cheeses, salads, etc. was competitive with breakfast buffets in five-star luxury hotels.

Sandra, the receptionist on duty, offered to make eggs, so Cheryl had an omelette with freshly sautéed vegetables.


Street workers in Nuremberg

Thanks to our hearty breakfast, we had the strength to watch municipal workers lay paving stones on a street near our hotel.


Roofer in Nuremberg

We were happy to be safely on the pavement when we saw a Dachdecker defying gravity on one of Nuremberg's steeply-pitched roofs.


Kettensteg, Nuremberg

The previous day, as we'd walked along the city walls, we'd been intrigued by the Kettensteg, a suspension footbridge over the River Pegnitz.


Kettensteg suspension footbridge and River Pegnitz, Nuremberg 

The Kettensteg is older than it looks: Although it received a major overhaul in 2010, the bridge's key components date back to 1824, and the Kettensteg is said to be the oldest suspension bridge in Continental Europe.


River Pegnits from Kettensteg, Nuremberg

From the Kettensteg, we had a fine view of the River Pegnitz, which runs through Nuremberg's Altstadt. (As the river approaches the city's western walls, a dam and nearby tunnels control the water flow to prevent flooding.)


River Pegnits weir in Nuremberg

Goose on River Pegnitz, Nuremberg 

Beaver on River Pegnitz in Nuremberg

The section of river near the city walls is now a protected nature area. While walking along the river's banks, we saw geese, ducks, and even a beaver.


Reflected bridge in River Pegnitz, Nuremberg 

The Maxbrücke,  built in 1457, was reflected in the quiet waters beyond the weir.


Troedelbruecke, Nuremberg

The riverside walkway brought us to the Henkersteg, or Hangman's Bridge, which was built in 1595 and reconstructed in the 1950s after being destroyed in World War II.


Henkersteg, Nuremberg

The Henkersteg leads to a tiny island in the river, the Trödelmarktinsel, which is home to small independently-owned shops and a few restaurants. (In prior centuries, the island was known for its pig market and flea market.)


Historic Art Bunker, Nuremberg

In the afternoon, we took a tour of the Historische Kunstbunker or Historic Art Bunker in the Castle Hill, where the city stored its most precious works of art in World War II.


Air conditioning in Historische Kunstbunker, Nuernberg

Pumps in Historic Art Bunkers, Nuremberg

The bunkers, in old beer cellars carved from bedrock under the Imperial Castle, were fitted with air conditioning and pumps to preserve the paintings, statues, historic treasures, and other irreplaceable objects.


Tunnel beneath Historic Art Bunkers, Nuremberg

Tunnels connect the Historic Art Bunkers with other areas of the Imperial Castle's Historic Rock-Cut Cellars, which were used as civilian bomb shelters in World War II.


Bomb in Historic Art Bunkers, Nuremberg

Photo of World War II bombing devastation, Nuremberg

At the end of our tour, we saw photos, unexploded bombs, and a video that showed the devastation of Nuremberg by Allied bombings and the city's postwar reconstruction.


Construction site in Nuremberg

Nuremberg's Altstadt still has construction sites. (Although it follows the old medieval plan, the Old City continues to evolve.)


Couple on bridge, downtown Nuremberg

Steeply pitched tile roofs with dormers are characteristic elements of Nuremberg's architecture, and even newer structures must fit in with restored pre-war buildings like these.


California cafe, Nuremberg

Still, it must be said that modern Nuremberg isn't without international influences.



Durant was especially taken with the Dunkin' Donuts at Königstrasse 76, which was a tasteful combination of rectilinear architecture and circular cuisine.


Bratwursthäusle, Nuremberg

Tempting though Dunkin's Krapfen might have been, we saved our appetites for dinner--this time at the Bratwursthäusle on the Rathausplatz, a local institution that our hotel receptionist had said we shouldn't miss.


Durant Imboden at Bratwursthäusle, Nuremberg

Another day, another platter of Nürnburger sausages (best enjoyed with the Bratwursthäusle's delicate Weinsauerkraut.)


Interior of Bratwursthäusle, Nuremberg

After eating outdoors on the terrace, we checked out the restaurant's cozy interior, which we'll have to try the next time we're in Nuremberg on a cool or rainy day.


Dog bowls at Bratwursthäusle, Nuremberg

Q: How can you tell that a German restaurant caters to locals, and not just to foreign tourists?

A: By the water bowls for dogs.


Public viewing of football match in Nuremberg

For our evening walk, we headed toward the eastern half of the Altstadt, passing a bar-restaurant where football fans were watching France defeat Iceland in the UEFA Euro championships.


Nuremberg Sommer in der City

Our walk led us to an island in the Pegnitz, the Insel Schütt, where an event called Sommer in der City was running from early May through late July.


Sommer in der City "Stadtstrand"

Tropical bar, Sommer in der City, Nuremberg

Lebkuchen stall, Nuremberg

Sign at Sommer in der City, Nuremberg

Dunkin' Donuts at Sommer in der City, Nuremberg

The "Nuremberg City Beach" had sand, a boardwalk with chairs for sunbathing, bars serving tropical drinks, food stalls, activities for children, a beach volleyball court, and even a riverside outpost of Dunkin' Donuts.


Stadtbiblithek Nürnberg

Leaving the island, we passed Cinecittà, Germany's largest cinema complex, and the Stadtbibliothek or Public Libary as we walked south toward the main railroad station.


A couple of minutes later, we reached the Lutheran Katherinenkirche (in English, St. Catherine's Church), which was largely destroyed by World War II bombing.


St Catherine's Church ruins, Nuremberg

The church has been stabilized and preserved as a ruin. Under the name "St. Katherina Open Air," it offers music concerts and theatre performances every summer.


Nuremberg tourist office and gate

Nuremberg tourist office and gate

We wrapped up our evening walk by admiring the glass-walled Nuremberg Tourist Information Office at Königstrasse 93, which faces the railroad station and the Königstor city gate.


U-Bahn Line 2 train, Nuremberg

The next morning, we walked from the Hotel Drei Raben to the Nuremberg Hauptbahnhof, where we caught a U-Bahn train (Line 2) to the airport for our free transfer to Emerald Star in the Nuremberg Cruise Port.


<< Erlangen

Cruise review >>

Emerald Star day-by-day photo diary:
Introduction
Day 1: Departure (Nuremberg)
Day 2: Bamberg
Day 3: Wurzburg
Day 4: Wertheim & Mittenberg
Day 5: Rhine & Koblenz
Day 6: Moselle & Bernkastel
Day 7: Trier
Day 8: Disembarkation (Trier)

Also see:
Pre-cruise stay: Erlangen
Pre-cruise stay: Nuremberg
Emerald Waterways cruise review: Nuremberg to Trier